An Adventure in Catholicism

Last week we had our Mid-Semester break; a five-day vacation in which the AIIS students could go wherever we like. After considering Bombay, I decided I would take the shorter and more relaxing trip to nearby Ft. Kochi with one of my classmates, Julia. She directed a short documentary last summer about the fishermen at the Chinese nets there and wanted to show them the finished product. She also wanted to get some footage for her research, and I was happy to refresh my video skills and assist her.

The focus for her Ph.D. is on the Catholic Charismatic movement in Kerala, and one of her sites of research is Ft. Kochi and a nearby Catholic retreat center. Needless to say, it was an adventure in itself just to get to the place. Julia’s enormous equipment pack in-tow, complete with tripod jutting out the side, we hopped on a bus from Ft. Kochi to Ernakulam, then overpaid an auto to take us to the state bus stand, then got another bus to this gigantic retreat center in the middle of nowhere. We came to the front desk of the Malayalam center, only to be directed across the busy highway to the “English/Hindi Camp.” Of courseit was raining and we had only one umbrella. I tried my best to keep the equipment pack underneath it, leaving Julia and I in the dampness.

The camp was enormous. As we walked into the entrance, there was 3-story high statue of Mary holding the lifeless Jesus next to a mural of Christ speaking to the crowds. At night, the statue is lit up in magical greens and blues. Little bunny rabbits and kangaroos were holding trashcans that read, “Use Me.” Julia and I later commented on how it seemed like an amusement park. Then I heard a voice speaking in English, “All you have to do is give your sins up to the Lord.” As I continued listening, I had a difficult time wrapping my brain around what was going on. It was almost like a Pentecostal service. It seemed such an oxymoron: Charismatic Catholicism. I looked around and wondered why people would be drawn to such a place. I suppose they are looking for answers just like everyone else in the world. Anyway, I will wait for Julia’s documentary to come out and see what she discovers.

By the time we left it was 9 pm and I was a little worried we wouldn’t be able to catch a bus. I haven’t really stayed out past then, because again, women don’t usually go out after dark without their husband/father/son. We also hadn’t eaten since lunch, so we were both a bit tired, damp, and hungry. We were able to catch a bus to Aluva, a place I know well, and a nice woman from Munnar helped us get a bus to Ernakulam. From there our adventure came to an end, back in our little homestay in Ft. Kochi. And because no restaurants were open, we finished the day off backpacker style with a package of banana chips and fried jackfruit.

Malayalam Words:

Vinodayatra – Pleasure trip

Mukkuvanmar – Fishermen

Kuda – Umbrella

Mazha – Rain

Yeshu – Jesus

Enne Upayogikkuu – “Use me (please)”

Pazham – Banana

Chakka - Jackfruit